Day 36: Miraz to Sobrado dos Monxes, 26.6 km.

Best bits and blessings:

• A cool, clear start to the day, after a good breakfast provided by the hospitalerios. Breakfast included a boiled egg, which may not seem like a big thing but it’s a very nice change to start the day with some protein! Dewy spiderwebs and erica. 
• We got going early and made plenty of stops to drink and rest, including the all important stop at a bar to collect a stamp. 
  
• The landscape was varied, with an area of interesting granite rock formations, some of which was quarried for more slab fences. 
  

  

• Later, we took a shady stop beside this beautiful lake. It was originally built by the monks for water supply, irrigation and trout. It was very beautiful with waterlilies, and full of singing frogs and dragonflies. 
  

  

• After our long walk we couldn’t immediately check into the albergue at the Monastery as the monks were, very sensibly, taking siesta. So we took the opportunity to refuel with a menu del dia which was very welcome.
  
• This Monastery is a chapter of Cistercian monks and the building is very historic, with parts of it dating back to the 10th century. It was largely in ruins after being abandoned in the 1800s, with restoration beginning in the mid 1950s.
  

  

  Bunk room in the Monastery.

  

Challenges:

• By the time we arrived at our destination, it was getting very hot. The weather is predicted to be even hotter tomorrow. Christine coped well with her second day of walking but the heat was a challenge. 
• Tomorrow, we merge paths with the Camino Frances at our next stop, Arzua. There will suddenly be many, many more pilgrims on the way and everything will become very busy. Not really looking forward to that. 

Standout Moments:

Last night we enjoyed a nice meal in the albergue, with the 20 or so pilgrims. It was prepared by the American volunteer hospitalerios, Miriam, Joanna and Wanda. They then initiated a round the table discussion about how and why each of us pilgrims came to be walking this Camino. It is the only time such a whole community discussion has taken place in any albergue that I have stayed in. It isn’t something that could happen every night but added a special dimension to that evening. 

Communal dinner. 

Leaving the albergue in the morning. 

Day 37: Sobrado dos Monxes to Arzua, 22.2 km.

Best bits and blessings:

• We attended vespers with the monks last night. While it wasn’t my preferred style of worship and I really didn’t understand much of what was happening, it was unique to be staying in a Monastery and to have the opportunity to join with their small community in worship. It included lots of singing by the monks. 
  
• During our morning coffee stop we spent a little time with Maria, a Dutch lady whom you may recall me mentioning before. I walked with her one morning for an hour or two, some weeks back. She has had all manner of physical challenges during her Camino which is why we are overlapping now. But she was overwhelmingly positive about the whole experience and very encouraging, despite only being able to walk short daily distances herself. An inspiration! 
• On another one of our breaks, we shared a bus stop with an elderly gentleman for a while. We were looking for a spot to take a break out of the sun and he beckoned us over. He did his best to talk with us and find out where we were from. He explained that he was 95 years old, and I suspect he takes a short walk from his home down to the bus stop every day to have a chat with the passing pilgrims. 
  
• Over the half way point for Christine! 
  

Challenges:

• There is no doubt that the main challenge today was the heat. It was an amazingly clear sky day and quickly warmed up. The walking itself was not difficult, but was made so much harder by the amount of road walking that was necessary today. The heat was definitely bouncing up from the hard surfaces. 
  

  Even the cattle were trying to get into the shade. An uphill stretch at the end on approach to Arzua was especially difficult. Christine did amazingly well to persevere. We checked into virtually the first pension we came to and took their last free room. Shower and rehydration were the first priorities, followed soon after by a great meal. 

  

  Now we are almost human, again. When we came out of the restaurant the temperature was around 33. Maybe a little more than when we were walking but sooo hot! We will try to leave earlier tomorrow to beat the heat and the thunderstorms predicted for later in the day. 

• And yes, suddenly here in Arzua there are pilgrims everywhere! Lots of the other pilgrims staying at this pension have had their luggage transfered here, so are walking with small backpacks. I’m trying to have a good attitude! Everyone walks their own Camino!